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Author Topic: MT-0X Build Thread  (Read 16366 times)

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MT-0X Build Thread
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Project MT-0X (Couldn't think of a better name)

I’ll start with how the bike looked before my latest project.
As can be seen I had changed the headlight out for one that actually worked ☺ which had a mixed reception at EOD in Germany. I’d built a double barrel single sided air intake with matching blank plate for the other side, and finally a tail chop where by I moded the single seat back end to include the light, shortened the Akra’s and moved the rear indicators. (these bits are for sale if anyone has an interest)
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So why change? Well I’d seen the Black Bull and felt whilst it was good I could do better! I always feel the bike looses something if it doesn’t have the high line Akra’s, in my view it’s what makes the bike distinctive, also they hadn’t finished it well, the side covers are awful.
So I’ve set myself a high bar and how am I going to achieve this with only basic tools and I mean basic. Other than a big socket set, screw drivers etc, I have a hand held drill, a short piece of hacksaw blade, a heap of plasticine and a sh1t load of fibreglass. (and the odd beer or two). My secret??? Time, it’s my belief that if you take enough time you can achieve everything the pro’s can do and more. OK for the electrics you need to be able to read a circuit diagram but hey.

More to follow

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Re: MT-0X Build Thread
« Reply #1 on: »
I started with the Akra’s, having shortened them once I was pretty confident I could take off a few more inches. Here’s how if you’re feeling bold.

1.   Before starting measure the can and decide how much you want to take off, I’ve cut mine so they’re now in line with the back of the single seat.
2.   If you can, remove the baffle retaining plate and the short baffle. (the screws were seized on mine so I left them in.)
3.   Drill out all the rivets top and bottom. You’ll need to push the ends in if they aren’t pushed in by the drill bit.
4.   Remove the end cap first, be careful not to mark it if you need to ease it out with a screwdriver.
5.   Next pull the outer sleeve off. (brute force and ignorance works) On one side the sound deadening came out with outer sleeve on the other it didn’t, no worries either way.
6.   Remove the sound deadening and place to one side. Be sure to wear gloves and a mask it’s awful stuff, store in a bag until you’re ready to cut it to length.
7.   Now you have the inner perforated sleeve which is welded to the base of the tail pipe.
8.   Having taken your measurement at the start now comes the ballsy party, cutting the titanium! If you mess this up you’re buggered ☺ You need to cut the titanium in rings approx. 15mm wide. You need the rings to make packers between the bottom ring and sleeve. I marked the width with masking tape and used a hand hacksaw (AVOID POWER TOOLS AT ALL COSTS). It takes time but enough time and care assures you get it right.
9.   Next cut the same length off the inner perforated sleeve.
10.   You can now cut the stuffing to length and refit or slide it in at the end before you put the end cap on. It’s a real pig of a job either way and I found it a pain every time. DON’T FORGET GLOVES AND MASK
11.   Fit the shortened outer sleeve over the inner. The rings you created can be slid down the inside of the outer sleeve to fill the gap between the sleeve and the end  (small end). You will not need all the rings as it’s a very gradual taper.
12.   DO NOT RIVET ANYTHING TOGETHER YET Re assemble the exhaust to the bike, you’ll need to make a link bar to go between the original exhaust mount point and the bracket on the exhaust. Once assembled make sure everything is inline (check thoroughly from all angles)  then drill through 2 (or more if you can get to them) of the lower holes (small end) using the existing hole in the outer sleeve as a guide. Rivet the outer to the inner using long rivets. BE CAREFUL IF YOU ONLY HAVE 2 RIVETED, TO NOT DISTURB THE ANGLE WHEN REMOVING.
13.   Take the exhaust off, drill the other holes and rivet.
14.   Fit the stuffing if you didn’t do it earlier.
15.   Re-rivet the end cap and fit the baffle and plate.

Hey presto!!! Short exhausts! Not much louder than the originals either.
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To be honest my first attempt was not that neat at the bottom end but covered up by the plastic covers. My only problem was I wasn’t bold enough! 2nd time round armed with bigger balls the end result was much better ☺

Next Headlight – Modified MT-03 unit.

Re: MT-0X Build Thread
« Reply #2 on: »
I like this thread.

I approve!!!!
 ;)
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Re: MT-0X Build Thread
« Reply #3 on: »
OK, long time between posts but here’s the headlight.
Having bought an MT-03 look a like from Bikermart I decided the brackets that came with it made it stand out too far so set about shortening them. Bit of a catastrophe when I cut too much off one end! But managed to recover it, see pics, but I intend to neaten up the bracket later. Coupling it closer to the forks meant I couldn’t fit the projector beam kit as I originally intended but hey this build is more about aesthetics than actually seeing where I’m going ☺, got a plan for some auxiliaries anyway.

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First fit

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Painted bracket

Having bodged the brackets I then wanted build in my new Motogadgets speedo, the mini cowl at the top of the light just cries out for this. Along with this I also thought I could house some of my new relays etc to allow me to use the digital switches. I completed both tasks by building a fibreglass cover for the back of the light, a fun task involving lots of plasticine and a lot of rubbing down but I think I ended up with a reasonably professional looking job, again see pic.

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Finished headlight with speed

Re: MT-0X Build Thread
« Reply #4 on: »
Bugger it changed the images!!!!!

Here we go
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Ooops realized what I did wrong!

Re: MT-0X Build Thread
« Reply #5 on: »
Nice work  :)

Re: MT-0X Build Thread
« Reply #6 on: »
Just a couple of shots of the new air scoop, still a fair way to go but you get the idea.
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Re: MT-0X Build Thread
« Reply #7 on: »
Looking good mate. How do you manage to form the scoops?

Re: MT-0X Build Thread
« Reply #8 on: »
Thanks Nikk, I form all my parts using Plasticine to model the shape, as I'm only making one offs I don't bother to create a mould. I create the shape slightly smaller than needed then cover with foil (makes it much easier getting the plasticine out) and apply layers of fibreglass. Lots of rubbing down and you have the part.

Re: MT-0X Build Thread
« Reply #9 on: »
Amazing. You weren't joking about the lack of tools then!

Re: MT-0X Build Thread
« Reply #10 on: »
Hi all,

I'll continue the build thread but just wanted to show a couple of shots of the first build, still a lot to do but it's close to how it will look finished.
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Re: MT-0X Build Thread
« Reply #11 on: »
Nice work mate. Never seen another look anything like it!

Re: MT-0X Build Thread
« Reply #12 on: »
great work, i really like it, I've seen another similar before on the internet and loved it  (pictures attached) i think yours looks better with the akra cans still on though. instead of the stumpy can on this one....... my question... do you have any pics of how you modded the sub frame and how you blended it so nicely with the back of the single seat?
kind regards
Dan

Re: MT-0X Build Thread
« Reply #13 on: »
A lot of hard work done great result. ;D

Re: MT-0X Build Thread
« Reply #14 on: »
Thanks for the comments, I'll be posting some more pictures soon but I've been snowed under with work lately so hadn't had much time for the bike. Just working on the last part!!! the license plate holder, it's a pig but it's coming together.

As for the subframe, after a couple of attempts adding a bolt on piece I just couldn't get the look I wanted so I went radical, chopped all the back end off to the exhaust mounts and filed off all the mounting points on the underside. I then remodeled it with GRP.
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