MT Owners Club
General Category => MT-01 => Topic started by: Carson Blocks on June 25, 2018, 06:36:16 pm
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Maybe, just maybe the BP takes away som vibration at higher revs. I now find myself doing 130 on the motorway where I was reluctant to go faster than 110 before.
Very difficult to prove this effect, but my hands are vibration sensitive after all years of riding and the difference is noticable.
(All in km/h, I'm not a madman)
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Charm of the MT is that you have all it's power always ready, no downshifting, no super-revving.
Just twist the throttle. It's beautiful.
Even if there are faster bikes.
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I think the name Booster Plug is misleading and it should be called the Smoother Running Plug as this is what it does, as has said before in this thread it will NOT turn your MT 01 into a fire breathing monster.
If you want more power you'll need very deep pockets and patience to source super rare parts (still minimal gains) so it's turbo or supercharger £5000 a pop.
Need for speed? advice is buy a fast bike.
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BP works for my BM R1200GS LC. These things have a bad flat spot off idle and surge on take off from the lights and the BP fixed this no question. Over the BM sites there is endless discussions on whether they work or not with many saying even on open loop the ECU have adaptive parameters that will change over time to over ride the effects of the BP. All to high tech for me ... I only know it works for the me. For the MT01 ... mines a 2010 SP model with Staintune pipes and I find the fuelling is perfect as stock. Cheers Steve
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Seems the Booster Plug lowers the fuel consumption slightly, last fill up gave almost exactly 5 liters in 100 km. I have never seen that before, it has always been 5.5-5.6 or thereabouts. Or more too.
I guess maybe you do not open the throttle quite as much as before to get the accelleration you expect.
We'll see how it works out in the coming months. Interesting anyway.
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Hi Danmt, Can you measure the resistor value? And do you know it's position in the circuit? is it just in series with the temp sensor?
I'm no expert either but think the resistor value will be variable depending on ambient temperature as the booster plug has it's own temperature sensor :)
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Hi Danmt, Can you measure the resistor value? And do you know it's position in the circuit? is it just in series with the temp sensor?
Sorry, I am an electronic anafabet. The original temp probe is completely disconnected, that much I can see.
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I have a Booster Plug installed for 2 years now on a stock bike with K&N filter and I can tell you that it works great ! Stronger idle , more low rev grunt and smoother engine noise .... It doesn't eliminate fuel cut-off completely , but I can only feel it going downhill (sometimes). :D
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Hi Danmt, Can you measure the resistor value? And do you know it's position in the circuit? is it just in series with the temp sensor?
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Just to make it clear, the Booster Plug is not so much about increasing power but increasing rideability, making it smoother and without surging etc which seems to beset many newer bikes.
If you really want to increase power, you need to modify the engine hardware.
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I dont know if the Mega Squirt would work, I only reference it as an easier way to tune it....as it has alot of possible parameters.... With the ecus locked, to me, it seems logical..YMMV
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The Booster Plug is now installed and a test ride has been done.
I think it does what it is advertised to do.
It is not a dramatic change, but the roll-ons are stronger and it does pull a little bit smoother than before.
In all fairness, I do not think a RP12 really needs it. I will definitely keep it though.
It would be interesting to see what it would do to a RP18.
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Well, Rocker's Booster Plug is on its way here. I will install it and I will tell you what I think.
Mine is a 05 which probably needs it the least, the newer models I believe were built to more stringent emissions regulations.
Anyway, it will be interesting.
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Wow, I just had a flashback to when I started asking about this some years ago when I was new to MT01.
And, just like then, the old hands said had all been done and just do this.
Of course I had my own view.
And indeed, then, just as now, some of the old sage advice was indeed wrong.
And I was wrong too of course, on many things.
The idea that a black box will make it a fire breather is just as tempting then as now. And still wrong.
Anyway, sorry, lets fast forward and here it goes again.
Lets say something that was very clear on the old forum towards the end.
There is no magic box.
You can get little changes that give a bit more but unless you do expensive and major engine upgrades there is little to be had.
A stage 2 equivalent ecu flash is as much as a standard engine can use. A stage 3 in a standard engine bike is so rich running it feels like a slug.
Even when you do do all the engine mods, or some of them, the result is great, no doubt, but if you think its the fastest most powerful thing around you are wrong and for the amount of money you spend the return is minimal.
Use that air temp cheat if you want but its a false way to do it. The 02 optimiser can be bought from Power commander or comes included in a PCv for MT01. That is all the black magic there is. Go the T4micha stage 2 ecu upgrade or whatever he recommends will give about the good result but you dont have to do the 02 eliminator thing because any of the "stage" ecu's do not use the 02 sensor and are open loop.
Confused, good, nothing has changed then.
The bikes still great though!
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Theres alot of tech heads on this site. I mean that with the utmost of respect.
How come no one has considered a Mega squirt. Fully tunable....
http://megasquirt.info/products/pro-controllers/ms3-pro/
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Don't know mate can find out if you give me an address :)
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i am very tempted, if nothing else to see if it works.
How much with shipping to Sweden?
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(http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r633/JocktheRocker/IMG_0406_zpsn5v9vnwv.jpg) (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/JocktheRocker/media/IMG_0406_zpsn5v9vnwv.jpg.html)
(http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r633/JocktheRocker/IMG_0404_zpsy9w4voro.jpg) (http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/JocktheRocker/media/IMG_0404_zpsy9w4voro.jpg.html)
Suitable for stock ECU
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No, I was referring to the map-conditions. Closed loop is another thing.
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... since many newer bikes are set very lean to pass emissions standards.
So then, we are talking about the closed loop area..?
It will always get "corrected" by the ECU in conjunction with the O2 sensor analysis...so it works initially but is being modified continually from the moment the bike starts, until it returns to stock...!
I have seen guys buy variable resisters and fit them. These they adjust from the handlebars to increase/reduce fueling ratios. I dont recommend it. You have no "quantitive" data. It is is "bucket" tuning !!
Trust me. If you want a working solution for the closed loop...Optimiser is they way to go..
If you want to tune the entire range, Michael's reflash is the solution. It does away with the O2 sensor, ExUp, and all the other "parameter" blocks especially with RP18 bikes, like noise control with ExUp in 3rd gear, rev limiting and so on....This is not an exhaustive list of RP18 restrictions that further stiffle your engine. They were made to meet EU3.
They are even worse these days..Believe me when I say, they modify you ignition out of sight to make "cruising" loads very low emissions. It is all very "counter intuitive" with respect the science of Internal Combustion Engines. Govts know best !!! ???
;)
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Well, I will not defend a product I have not used, but the idea of the BP is to make a stock bike run better and smoother since many newer bikes are set very lean to pass emissions standards. The main thing here is wheater it works or not and I cannot say anything here. My original response was only to alert the TS of its existence.
Of course it is a resistor, the trick is finding the value of a resistor thats works optimally. That is what we are paying for and of course the hardware and the manufacture of the kit. Still a bit expensive, I admit.
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When the engine is in closed loop, you ar correct. When it isn't you are wrong. Closed loop only works when load and rpm etc are more or less constant.
When you nail it it is on the fuel map and that can be changed (PC) or fooled (BP).
Actually...you are not correct about closed loop...!
It is working between 0-20% throttle openings...and/or 0-3250rpms ( I think!?!) Anyway..load is way too sophisticated for this ECU. Boosterplug may alter AFR outside closed loop but you have no idea/control over how much/actual afr. I mean, it isnt tuning in any real sense of the meaning.. so you might aswell unplug your IAT sensor.
Or add an Optimiser which successfully enriches closed loop AFR.
Remember, we use this engine in 0-3250rpms (closed loop) ALOT !! It is a decent solution to lean running engine issues....
The best tuning solution ( maybe if you are in Germany , you can have issues with O2 sensor absence at testing etc?!) is from a German. Micheal will reflash your ECU and reload it with a pretty decent map, tailored to your specific set-up...! I personally run Stage 3 ECU with PC V and double map made on the dyno... ;)
Boosterplud is still just a fi'dollar resister from Walmart...!! ;D
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When the engine is in closed loop, you ar correct. When it isn't you are wrong. Closed loop only works when load and rpm etc are more or less constant.
When you nail it it is on the fuel map and that can be changed (PC) or fooled (BP).
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in what way doesn't it work? Fooling the ECU to think it is -20 seems a bit drastic to me.
The ECU works it out beause it reads O2 gas analysis and changes the AFR back...!
Booster Plug is a simple resister. Costs maybe five bucks in a hardware store...Waste of time IMO !
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As Tim says unplug the temperature sender actually fools the ecu that it's -30 thus adding more fuel (maybe too much if the air temp is actually 25) the booster plug I have reads the outside temp and only cheats the ecu to think it's 10 degrees lower than the actual temp so richens by not quite so much.
The booster is best for a stock ecu and not really needed for my moded ecu and pc111 so I may sell it cost £115 would take £60 inc post in the UK it's plug and play fitted in 5 mins
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in what way doesn't it work? Fooling the ECU to think it is -20 seems a bit drastic to me.
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It most certainly has closed loop. One way of enrichening the mapped part of the injection schedule could be installing a Booster Plug. The BP fools the computer to think the ambient temp is lower than it is and meters out more fuel. Of course it is designed for a stock bike, maybe yours is too modified for it to work properly?
I haven't tried the BP myself, but I will.
It doesnt work- save your dough.
Unplug the IAT sensor in the headlight. You get an Engine light but it enrichens the fueling thinking its -20C !
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Add the Optimiser ( Dynojet Optimiser for MTO1)
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Get Michael to flash the ECU properly..!
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There is a German chap, Michael, who does proper reflashes of standard ecu so that you can remove the dependency on the 02 sensor. It’s basically impossible to tune them without this being bypassed. On the old site there were hundreds of pages of discussion!
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It most certainly has closed loop. One way of enrichening the mapped part of the injection schedule could be installing a Booster Plug. The BP fools the computer to think the ambient temp is lower than it is and meters out more fuel. Of course it is designed for a stock bike, maybe yours is too modified for it to work properly?
I haven't tried the BP myself, but I will.
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Hi, I've got a 2007 MT-01, pretty stock with the exception of a high flow filter and a decat. I've got a set of DAM pipes on the way and am starting to wonder about ECU tuning. A lot of the info on this bike seems to have evaporated, so I'm wondering if anyone knows about the ECU/O2 sensor and the best path for tuning A/F. I notice a O2 sensor on the header, is there any chance this means the bike is closed loop and can adjust fuel trims? I've heard a little bit of conflicting info on this.
If I have to mod fuel trims myself, is there any way to edit the actual ECU? I see cables and software for other Yamahas, but the MT01 being a bit of an oddball, I'm not sure what my chances of getting a cable meant for another bike to work.
If I have to use a add-on box, I was thinking maybe a Power Commander V plus autotune. Not sure if I can replace the existing O2 sensor, or if the bike ECU needs to keep that and I'd need to weld in a second O2 bung. Any better options I should be looking at instead?
Thanks in advance. I've been searching but it looks like a lot of the MT forums have vanished and I haven't found a lot of tech info on this bike.